Dönnhoff - Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling Trocken Erste Lage (1G) 2022 (750ml)
Dönnhoff Description
The Dönnhoff family first came to the Nahe region 250 years ago, establishing a traditional farm in the village of Oberhäusen an der Nahe, which included livestock and vegetable gardens in addition to some grape growing. Oberhäusen and this part of the Nahe river valley is very pastoral; it feels far away from the relative hustle and bustle of the Rheingau and wine tourism. The countryside is serene and beautiful, marked by steep hillside vineyards in the succession of villages following the river from Norheim to Niederhausen, through Oberhäusen, ending in Schlössbockelheim.
The estate was started by Helmut Dönnhoff’s grandfather, Hermann, in the 1920s. Helmut took over from his father, Hermann Jr. in 1966; at that time there were only four hectares under vine and still quite a bit of farmland, which was rented out. In 1971, the farmland was sold and Helmut turned his full attention to producing quality wine.
Helmut is a very instinctive winemaker with a natural touch that he’s clearly passed on to his son Cornelius, who joined him at the winery 2007. The Dönnhoffs believe in craft and workmanship with the understanding that “winemaking alone cannot bring quality; it can only retain the available quality.” In the 40+ years that have passed since Helmut began his work some things have changed and shifted, but the commitment to excellence and transparency above all has remained constant from one generation to the next.
Famous, steeply sloping vineyard in a small side valley of the middle section of the Nahe River. The Höllenpfad (“Path to Hell”) name is an old one, likely referencing both the vineyard‘s steep slope as well as the unique color of the red sandstone. The surrounding landscape is bathed daily in the rich, warm light of the evening sun as it reflects off the hillside‘s distinctive red soil. It‘s also not hard to imagine that the word “Hell” might have been uttered by many a winegrower after a particularly laborious day on these steep slopes. The weathered warm sandstone of the Rotliegend strata lends the wines their inimitable character. Grapes grown here tend to be very small with intense, nuanced aromas; the resulting wines are elegant with a spicy mineral fruit and excellent aging potential.
Vinous: 92 Points
The 2022 Riesling Roxheimer Höllenpfad is from Permian red sandstone. Despite much swirling, the nose is rather shy and does not want to give up any secrets. The taut palate is more forthcoming with a bright, crystal-clear lemon note. The 2022 is a linear wine with a proper streak of lemon zestiness and a deep well of ripe lemon freshness that is serene, streamlined, clear and lasting. Lovely. The fine acidity is buffered with a beautiful, subtle length.
(Bone-dry)
